Yellowstone National Park

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Grand Prismatic Spring, as seen from the Fairy Falls Trail

It’s not like any other place on the planet.  After visiting, I realize why this is the first plot of land that the government decided to protect as a National Park. The uniqueness of the geothermal features, the diversity of the wildlife, and the varied landscapes make Yellowstone National Park the quintessential road trip destination.  And it did not disappoint.  Our four days in Yellowstone were chock full of adventure.  Here are the highlights!

Geysers

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The Grand Geyser

When people most people think about Yellowstone, visions of Old Faithful come to mind. Old Faithful is one of the most famous geysers in the world, mostly because its erupts so regularly.  However, Yellowstone is home to over 500 geysers, some of which are even larger and more impressive.  And when you just happen to be in the right place at the right time to see one of the more unpredictable geysers erupt, it makes for a pretty memorable experience.  We were able to see Grand Geyser this way, and we felt like we won the lottery!

As for seeing Old Faithful, we decided to climb up the Observation Point Trail to watch an arial view of the eruption.  The trail was short and very steep, but watching Old Faithful without the crowds was awesome.  And by the time we climbed down and cooled off with some cold drinks, we were able to see it erupt from the ground level as well.

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View of Old Faithful from the Observation Point Trail

Hot Springs

img_2954There is something about heat and water that make for some incredible sights.  We saw hot springs throughout Yellowstone, but none can beat the Grand Prismatic Spring found in the Midway Geyser Basin.  The colors, formed by bacteria living in the cooler water along the edges, make the Grand Prismatic Spring a favorite place for photographers.  As we struggled to get a good shot from the boardwalk, someone suggested that we walk the Fairy Falls Trail, which leads to an overlook of the Grand Prismatic Spring.  It was there that I got my favorite photograph in Yellowstone.  (See above – its the featured photo!)

We saw hot springs throughout Yellowstone.  The steam rising up from the ground, especially in the cool morning hours before the crowds arrived, made us feel like we were visiting another planet.

 

Wildlife

img_3332Maybe its because we’re from New York.  Maybe its because they’re such huge, majestic creatures.  Whatever it is, we never get tired of seeing bison!  We saw a single male bison on our way through Hayden Valley, sitting right by the side of the road.  But when we drove out to Lamar Valley, they were everywhere.  I’m not exaggerating when I say we probably saw over a thousand bison, hanging out in herds of 50 to 300.  The drive was so scenic, with rolling hills and views of the river.  We spent a whole morning with our eyes in the binoculars, watching the bison and looking for a glimpse of a bear or wolf.

While in Yellowstone, we also saw a coyote, bighorn sheep, deer, and elk.  We even saw a female moose walking through the West Thumb Geyser Basin.  There were signs everywhere saying “Keep Off, Fragile Ground”.  I just kept waiting for the poor cow to fall through, but she just grazed on the grass then walked off into the woods.

 

 

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

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Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Yellowstone is really really crowded in the summer.  When we first drove up to Canyon Campground where we stayed all four nights, we saw long lines of cars waiting to get into both the North Rim and South Rim drives.  I don’t have patience for that kind of traffic in a national park, so we decided that the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, including views of upper and lower falls, would be done first thing in the morning.  And it worked out perfectly.  We beat the crowds and pretty much had the trails to ourselves.  We were able to walk down to the brink of Upper Falls and I took the steep walk down to the brink of Lower Falls.  Gorgeous scenery in every direction.

We should all be thankful that there were people in history who had the foresight to protect this land from development.  There is so much to learn and experience in Yellowstone National Park.  From the geysers and hot springs to the countless hikes and walks, to the valleys where wildlife can be seen, its a magical place.  Check out the slideshow below for some more photos from our time in Yellowstone!

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Grand Teton National Park

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View of the Teton Mountains behind a historic home on Mormon Row

Grand Teton National Park has been on my list of places to visit since Ryan and I missed it on our first trip out west.  The majestic mountains, peaceful lakes, and amenities of the nearby town of Jackson makes this a popular year-round tourist destination.  There are plenty of options for lodging within the park, as well as in the nearby towns.  However, most of the campgrounds don’t accept reservations.  I’m a planner by nature, and the thought of rolling into Grand Teton NP on a Friday evening after driving all day and hoping for an open site had me nervous.  Because of this, the first night we booked a “tent cabin’ which was really just a big canvas tent with bunkbeds, but it was reservable and affordable so it worked. Ryan got up before the sun the next morning and drove to the Jenny Lake campground, one of the most sought-after campgrounds in the country.  By 7am there were 15 cars in line hoping to get one of the 49 sites.  Ryan was car #4, and we got an amazing campsite!  From there were settled in an enjoyed all of the amazing activities that Grand Teton National Park has to offer.  Here are our favorites!

Scenic Float Trip Down the Snake River

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The family on the raft

The whole family was excited to take a four-hour, nine mile float trip down the Snake River, which runs through Grand Teton National Park.  The morning of the trip was sunny, and the air was a little crisp.  There were birds flying, deer grazing, and the view of the mountains from the water was breathtaking.  The raft held sixteen people, so we were with two other families.  Along the way our guide told stories about the various mountains and pointed out wildlife.  We even saw six bald eagles! It was a wonderful way to spend a summer morning.

Horseback Riding

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On our horses by Emma Matilda Lake

The one thing that Jack REALLY wanted to do this summer was to go horseback riding.  Our campsite in Custer State Park was right next to a stable, but the times for trail rides didn’t fit our plans.  And I’m glad they didn’t because riding horses in Grand Teton National Park was one of my favorite things we did all summer.  Jack rode a horse named Banner, and I was assigned Pisco.  They were both the sweetest horses throughout the two hour trail ride.  We rode through a meadow up to Emma Matilda Lake, around an overlook of Oxbow Bend, through a forest, and ended up with gorgeous views of the mountains.  It was an incredible experience from beginning to end, and it was nice for Jack and I to do something special together, just the two of us.  Because Liam was too young for a full trail ride, we treated him to a special pony ride, cowboy hat and all.

Hiking Trails

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The boys at the Jenny Lake Overlook

We did quite a bit of hiking throughout our stay.  Unfortunately, the Inspiration Point and Hidden Falls Trails were closed while we were there due to potentially dangerous rockfalls, but we still took the ferry boat across Jenny Lake and hiked up to the Jenny Lake Overlook.  The hike was short and somewhat steep, but the views along the way and from the top were spectacular.

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Liam enjoying Phelps Lake

Another day we stopped at the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve Center and hiked the four miles in to Phelps Lake.  It was hot and the boys were tired, but we saw so many wildflowers and butterflies along the way.  There were bridges to cross and small waterfalls, and then the lake itself was so bright blue.  The whole time we were making plenty of noise in an effort to keep the bears away, and we were happy to avoid any sightings along the trails.

 

 

Scenic Drive

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View from Schwabacher Landing

There is a 42 mile scenic loop drive that extends throughout the park.  All along the way are views of the mountains, though the perspective changes as you move north/south or east/west.  There are plenty of places to pull off and take photos or soak in the scenery, and lots of wildlife to be seen along the drive.  We saw a herd of buffalo, a black bear in the woods, countless deer, and elk.  There are lodges along the way with restaurants and stores to stop at, all with gorgeous views and good food.  We particularly liked the Mountain of Nachos at the Signal Lake Lodge, and the sandwiches at Dornan’s Chuckwagon.  The southern part of the park has several historic areas to explore and buildings to visit.

The natural beauty in Grand Teton National Park is the highlight of the visit, and we enjoyed it from hiking trails, car windows, boats, rafts, and horseback.  And somehow the adventure of having to get up early and fight for a spot at Jenny Lake Campground made staying there even more special.  I wish I could say that I crossed Grand Teton NP off my list of places to visit, but I can’t wait to go back!

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The boys and I along the Phelps Lake Trail

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Custer State Park

 

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View of the hills in Custer State Park – with evidence of the December 2017 fire that burned over 50,000 acres

 State parks often get overlooked because people assume they’re less impressive than the national parks, but Custer State Park has it all – beautiful scenic drives, wildlife everywhere, and plenty of activities for the whole family to enjoy.  It is located about two hours west of Badlands National Park, not far from Rapid City.  We spent a few days in this corner of South Dakota, enjoying the tourist attractions of Rapid City and looking for wildlife in Custer State Park.  Here are the highlights!

 Mount Rushmore

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It’s iconic.  We’ve all seen the photos of the faces carved into the side of a mountain, but driving up and seeing the massive scale and beautiful surroundings makes Mount Rushmore even more impressive.  Jack, with his love of American History, was especially excited to visit and learn about how this national monument came to exist. We watched the video in the Visitors Center, browsed the exhibits in the museum, walked a portion of the Presidential Trail, and the boys completed their Junior Ranger badges.  We visited at the end of a long day, so getting both boys to stand for a nice picture was nearly impossible, but we made it through without a full-blown Liam meltdown, so it was a good visit!

 

Crazy Horse Memorial

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The Crazy Horse Memorial (and yes, those are trucks up there!)

The Crazy Horse Memorial is a lesser-known monument, created in memory of a Native American named Crazy Horse who was killed by the United States government in 1877 while defending the land occupied by the Lakota people.  This memorial is still under construction, and once completed it will be the largest sculpture in the world.  Progress is slow because the non-profit foundation in charge of the Crazy Horse Memorial refuses to accept federal funds.  Ryan and I had visited back in 2009, and it was interesting to see how the monument had changed over the past nine years.

Bear Country USA

img_1913I love bears.  They are such interesting and impressive animals, but it’s difficult to see them in the wild.  And even if you’re lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one, it’s far too dangerous to get close enough to capture a great photo.  Bear Country USA is a drive-through wildlife park where bears, bighorn sheep, bison, wolves, and dozens of other animals are allowed to roam (somewhat) free.  Of course, you’re required to keep the windows rolled up and stay in the car, but driving through and seeing these amazing animals up close was awesome.  A black bear walked right by our car, close enough to reach out and touch it!  As our car slowly moved through, we were able to watch the bears splash around in their pool, run around and play with each other, and sleep in the shade. It was worth every penny!  At the end, there’s a section where you park the car and walk around, seeing some of the smaller animals, including bear cubs!

Wildlife

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Bison herd along Fisherman Flats

We chose to visit Custer because I read that it was one of the best places in the country to see bison. We had actually booked a Buffalo Safari, but after seeing so many bison in the Badlands, we decided to cancel and take our chances at finding them on our own.  We stopped at the Wildlife Station Visitor Center and asked where we should go to see bison.  They directed us down an unpaved road called Fisherman Flats.  The scenery was beautiful, but we didn’t see much.  Until we got to the end of the road.  There was a huge herd of bison right by the road, lounging, grazing, and even a mother nursing her calf.  It was better than we could have imagined.

In addition to bison, there are wild burros that roam around the park.  They are very tame, and Liam especially loved trying to pet them. Many people were feeding them, though it isn’t allowed by park rules.

On our drives we also saw pronghorn deer, white-tailed deer, prairie dogs, and lots of birds.  It was a great park for seeing animals in their natural habitat!

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Peter Norbeck Outdoor Education Center

We spent so much time at this gem inside Custer State Park, that had to include it! It’s a new facility, designed for children to learn, explore, and play.  Everything is hands-on, from the museum exhibits to the outdoor play spaces.  They have programs for kids throughout the day, grouping them by age so that everyone can enjoy the activities.  Ryan and I took full advantage of the little lounge room, relaxing while the boys were off learning about weather and bison and everything in between.  Kids can earn a Junior Naturalist badge too!

So much more!

Jack has a new found love of rocks and gems, so he was excited to visit the Big Thunder Gold Mine.  The boys were able to pan for gold, which is a lot more difficult than I expected, but we did leave with some tiny pieces.  I thought the boys would be disappointed that they didn’t have a big chunk of pyrite at the end of it, but they both left with smiles.

While in Custer, we also took a drive up the Needles Highway.  This is a scenic drive that is off limits to RVs and other larger vehicle.  And for good reason.  It was a nail biting, winding road up through the hills, with hairpin turns, big drop-offs, oneway tunnels, and amazing views.  I was glad that Ryan was driving!

There are two amazing caves in the area, Wind Cave National Park and Jewel Cave National Monument.  We visited Jewel Cave and took the Scenic Tour, which the whole family enjoyed.  And two more Junior Ranger badges were earned there as well.

We packed so much into our three days in the Custer State Park area of South Dakota.  You could easily spend a week here, and you would have PLENTY to do!  There is a great mix of tourist attractions and untouched wilderness, making it a wonderful place to spend time with the family.

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Badlands National Park

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Driving into Badlands National Park is like entering another world.  After hours of driving through the grasslands with nothing much to look at except for the billboards for Wall Drug, the rock formations of the Badlands seemed to come out nowhere.  Jack and Liam were in awe.  Up until this point, the places that they have visited haven’t varied all that much from the hardwood forests of the northeast.  This was their first glimpse of the variety that exists within this beautiful country, and I don’t think they’ll ever forget that first drive into the Badlands National Park.  Our time there was full of scenic drives, amazing hikes, and plenty of wildlife sightings!

 

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Yellow Mounds

Scenic Drive

Most people who visit Badlands National Park just spend a couple of hours driving through the main road that runs from east to west in the park.  There are many places to pull off and take in the unbelievable views. We drove this route several times as we traveled around the park, and each time we would make different stops. No two views were quite alike, and we never tired of hopping out of the car to check out the scenery at that stop. The boys fought over the camera every single time!

 

Hiking

img_1715On our first morning in the park, we woke up to a bright sunny morning.  This is a good time to mention that the previous evening, we experienced an insane storm with relentless winds, thunder and lightning. It really helped us see how the Badlands got its name.  The winds were so bad that our tent poles buckled, collapsing a side of the tent while we were in it.  I fled to the car with the kids in the middle of the night while Ryan held the tent up until the storm passed.  It was a storm we won’t soon forget.

 

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The boys along the Door Trail

The next morning dawned without a cloud in the sky.  After some coffee, we headed out to hike the Notch trail.  It was an awesome hike!  One section required us to climb a three-story ladder on the side of the rocks. After maneuvering along the edge of a cliff (and keeping the kids close), we made it to the overlook.  The views of the valley below were stunning and well worth the stressful moments of the climb.

Another trail that we enjoyed was the Door Trail.  It was pretty short, starting on a boardwalk and then wandering off into the formations. Instead of looking down at the views, we were right among them.  The boys loved climbing up the rocks and exploring all the pathways.  It can be easy to get lost here, but we kept an eye on the numbered trail markers as we made our way through this section of the landscape.

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Wildlife

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Bison seen near Sage Creek Campground

If you ask Jack and Liam, the highlight of the Badlands was the wildlife sightings that we had.  We drove to Sage Creek Road one afternoon, basking in the air conditioning, and hoping to see some bison.  We came across a small herd very far from the road.  We looked at them through binoculars, tried to take some pictures (they looked like brown dots), and thought that might be the best we could do.  We were actually just excited to see them.  We continued down the road and turned into Sage Creek Campground.  There was an amazing herd of well over 100, with several wandering in the field near our car so that we could get a close look and some amazing photographs.  We sat there for the better part of an hour, just watching the amazing animals.  We were the only car there.  It was awesome!

 

In addition to watching the bison, we visited the prairie dog town along Sage Creek Road as well. Liam especially loved these little creatures, watching them run around and pop up all over.  On our way back, we stopped at an overlook, and right next to the path was a little rattlesnake all curled up.  He wasn’t too happy to have people around, and we could hear him rattling, so we decided to retreat to the car and try to visit that spot another day. I’ve never seen a rattlesnake, so that was an interesting event!

Wall Drug

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Sitting on the Jackelope at Wall Drug

No trip to this part of South Dakota is complete without a trip to Wall Drug.  There are billboards for this tourist stop for hundreds of miles in every direction, advertising free ice water and five-cent coffee. Wall Drug is actually a huge complex with a restaurant, ice cream shop, and dozens of different stores selling all kinds of western merchandise, clothing, artwork, and more.  You have to visit to truly experience it!  I used their free WiFi to update the blog while the boys wandered around, sitting on the huge jackelope, looking through the rock and gem shops (Jack’s obsession this summer), and begging for toys and souveniers.  They ended up getting authentic miniature Native American tone hammers, with feathers and horsehair adorning then.  Perfect for their collection boxes.  We finished out the afternoon with ice cream and several cups of five-cent coffee for Ryan and myself.  It was a fun way to beat the heat of South Dakota.

 

The Badlands left a strong impression on our family.  It is a beautiful, yet inhospitable land that is starkly different from what we’re used to. We enjoyed learning about the climate and culture of the area and coming to the understanding that natural forces make this area of the country so difficult to live in, yet it’s these same natural forces that worked over millions of years to create the breathtaking landscapes found in Badlands National Park.

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View from our campsite